Suggest

Lead belaying

Climbing / Popular

Manage slack, catch lead falls and give a soft catch.

What coaches agree on

  • Manage slack actively: feed out just enough for the climber to move and clip freely, then take in the extra the moment they clip so a fall stays short.
  • Keep one hand on the brake-side rope at all times so you're always ready to catch a fall.
Show more
  • Do a partner check before every climb: confirm the harness is buckled, the tie-in knot is correct, and the belay device and carabiner are rigged and locked.
  • Give a soft catch by moving your body with the fall - hop, step in, or let the pull carry you up as the rope comes tight.

Common mistakes

  • Standing too far back from the wall or first bolt is a common belayer error: it means less control and a harder pull off balance if the climber falls, and can put the rope at an angle that burns the falling climber.
  • Gripping the belay device with your whole hand, or grabbing the climber's side of the rope, while trying to feed slack quickly can defeat the device's braking action right when the climber falls.
Rock Climbing: Lead Belay
Beginner

Rock Climbing: Lead Belay

Coach's take: One of the best lead-belay explainers around — explains the why, not just the what.

4.0