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Crimp grip

Climbing / Popular

Use half and full crimp safely, and know when to open-hand instead.

What coaches agree on

  • Increase how hard you train your crimp strength gradually, a little at a time over several weeks — your finger tendons and pulleys adapt and heal much slower than your muscles do.
  • Move into crimps slowly and with control rather than lunging for them, so your fingers have time to set before your full weight lands on them.
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Common mistakes

  • Letting your hips hang away from the wall and pulling mainly with your fingers, instead of driving in with your hips and pushing off your feet, which adds unnecessary stress to the crimp.
  • Reaching for a full, thumb-wrapped crimp by default — especially as a beginner or routinely on indoor climbs — instead of the safer half crimp or open hand.