Crimp grip in Climbing

Reviewer This is the one to actually learn from — explains not just what the grips are but why you'd switch between them mid-move.

Moderator Comprehensive breakdown of open hand, chisel grip, half crimp, and full crimp with real joint terminology (DIP/PIP) and how elbow flare and rising center of gravity change which grip is efficient mid-move. This is the sub-skill taught properly.

Reviewer The skin-slack explanation alone is worth the watch — a trick I don't see taught often, and it actually works.

Moderator Entirely about why crimps are hard to hold (leverage, small surface area, skin laxity) and a specific fix — rolling into the hold to take up the slack in your skin. Nothing else discussed.

Reviewer Explains the mechanics well enough that you'll actually understand why it works, not just that it does.

Moderator Deep technical dive specifically on the half crimp — PIP joint angle, DIP loading, the lever problem created by elbow flare, and why open hand fails when your body comes off the wall. Squarely and rigorously about the sub-skill.

Reviewer One of the clearer, more honest breakdowns of crimp types in the set.

Moderator Whole episode is dedicated to defining and comparing the three crimp grips and how/when to train each - stays on topic throughout.

Reviewer Rare video that honestly tells you whether you are even ready for this grip - real coaching instinct.

Moderator Wall-to-wall full crimp: what it is, who should train it, explicit prerequisites, warmup structure, and a hangboard protocol with edge sizes and hang times. Everything in this video serves the specific technique.

Reviewer Dense, well organized, and it actually explains the physics -- one of the best in this batch.

Moderator Entirely about how to crimp more effectively using body positioning rather than added finger strength -- hip/chest proximity to the wall, foot choice, deceleration, dead-pointing. Every concept ties directly back to reducing load on the crimping fingers. About as on-topic as it gets for this sub-skill.

Reviewer Sorts out closed crimp versus full crimp properly. Most videos do not.

Moderator Entirely about the crimp - open hand, half crimp, closed crimp and the true full crimp. Exactly the sub-skill and nothing else.

Reviewer Silly delivery, legit programming — the injury-prevention caps are the important part.

Moderator Entirely about the full crimp — why it's strong, the joint stress involved, and a concrete progression to train into it safely. On topic throughout.

Reviewer Thorough, well-sequenced crimp training plan from someone who's clearly coached this before.

Moderator Framed as 'small holds' but the content - crimpy problems, crimp positions on a fingerboard - is squarely crimp-strength development.

Reviewer Solid foundational crimp explainer, accurate and to the point.

Moderator Defines crimping, breaks down the three hand positions, and gives training/injury guidance - the whole video is about this exact grip.

Reviewer The warning about easing in is worth more than the grip descriptions themselves.

Moderator Defines closed/full/half crimp and open hand clearly, walks through the natural learning order, and gives an honest personal injury story as a warning. Squarely on topic and beginner-appropriate.

Reviewer Fast, correct, and specific - the relax-then-tension cue alone will save people's skin and tendons.

Moderator Thumb placement, wrist alignment, shoulder engagement, fingertip-vs-pad contact, and grip timing - every single point is a direct crimp-technique detail. No padding here, wall-to-wall grip mechanics.

Reviewer Six clean, actionable tips - the over-crimping warning alone is worth the watch.

Moderator Squarely about the transition to smaller holds: beta review, footwork, leg drive, which fingers to pair on a pocket, and the money tip - avoiding over-crimping and thumb-stacking to protect your joints. That is the actual craft of gripping small edges, not adjacent training talk.

Reviewer Solid, practical, and it's demonstrated on the wall — exactly the correction a newer climber needs to hear.

Moderator Directly about crimp climbing mistakes on a real boulder problem — over-gripping, body position relative to the crimps, and finding the sweet spot on the hold. Every minute is on-topic.

Reviewer Solid checklist to run through next session on the wall.

Moderator Five crimp-specific fixes — thumb position, wrist alignment, shoulder engagement, fingertip/pad placement, over-gripping. All squarely about crimping technique.

Reviewer The risk-reward framing is the kind of thing an actual coach tells you, not a caption.

Moderator About choosing between open hand, half crimp and full crimp — squarely the sub-skill, and the framing (it's about body position and effort, not the hold) is a genuinely useful reframe.

Reviewer The 'engage your back, not just your fingers' point alone is worth the watch.

Moderator Open crimp grip setup plus whole-body engagement (shoulders, elbows, feet) instead of just clamping fingers. Squarely about crimp technique and endurance.

Reviewer Good quick technique reference, just not much depth.

Moderator Short but entirely focused on open vs closed crimp technique and when to use each.

Reviewer Clear, accurate, no fluff — a good first watch on crimping, just don't expect much depth beyond the basics.

Moderator Does exactly what the title says — breaks down open crimp, half crimp, and full crimp back to back on the same hold, comparing the security and joint stress of each. This is the sub-skill, full stop.

Reviewer Real training theory, not just 'do this' -- explains why half-crimp is the priority position.

Moderator About grip positions for fingerboard training generally, but the whole framework (specificity, tissue robustness, strength transfer) is built around establishing the half-crimp as the primary position, which is the crimp grip. Since it frames itself as 'top 3 grip positions' rather than being crimp-exclusive it's not a perfect 2, but the crimp analysis itself is deep and central.

Reviewer Nothing fancy, just the two things that actually fix new-climber crimping.

Moderator Two crimp-specific tips for new climbers — shifting center of gravity away from the hold, and trusting feet instead of over-gripping. Directly on topic and pitched at the right level.

Reviewer Clear and correct, if a bit like reading a glossary entry out loud.

Moderator Textbook-perfect scope match: defines crimping, walks through the half crimp hand position (first knuckle down, middle knuckle up), the full crimp with the thumb wrap, flags the joint-stress tradeoff, and gives a practice progression. This is the definition of the sub-skill, not adjacent to it.

Reviewer Explains the actual mechanism behind the trend instead of just chasing it -- good stuff.

Moderator Entirely about grip/crimp training methodology -- comparing the 'talon grip' and 'recruitment pull' variants against standard hangboarding, both just intentional variations on crimp finger position and engagement. Goes deep on the actual joint mechanics (MCP/PIP/DIP) and the skin-bunching effect on crimped holds. Squarely about how you train and execute a crimp, not a tangent.

Reviewer Straight talk from a PT on why crimp injuries happen and how to actually avoid them.

Moderator Whole video is injury prevention specifically in the context of crimping: connective tissue anatomy, training frequency, how hard crimp positions should be introduced based on experience, weight-taper pacing on hangboard crimps. It's the risk side of crimp grip rather than pure technique, but that's a core, necessary part of learning to crimp, not a tangent.

Reviewer Good glossary, not really a how-to.

Moderator Straightforward walkthrough of open hand, half crimp, full crimp with a tension/injury caution. On topic, gym-intro style.

Reviewer Sharp insight from someone who clearly trains this for real, though it is a conversation, not a step-by-step drill.

Moderator A deep dive into one specific joint, the last knuckle, staying arched instead of collapsing in a half crimp - a real and underexplored variant of crimp technique discussed with genuine biomechanical specificity. Narrower than crimping in general, but unmistakably about the crimp family of grips.

Reviewer The DIP-joint test is the best beginner explanation going - just do not stop here.

Moderator Defines the crimp grip precisely and then tests that definition against crimps, pinches, slopers and jugs. Half the frame is the open grip, but the crimp is the thing being pinned down.

Reviewer Legit strength protocol with real progression logic -- just trim the blooper at the end.

Moderator This is a full hangboard protocol built specifically around crimp grip positions -- half-crimp start, arm/shoulder positioning, hold duration, weight progression. It's training methodology for the crimp grip rather than a pure 'how to hold a crimp' lesson, but the whole structure is organized around crimp position and duration so it stays tightly on-topic.

Reviewer Simple, correct, and actually useful -- good first crimp lesson.

Moderator Every tip is specifically about crimping technique -- control, grip pressure, weight transfer to the feet, staying close to the wall. Nothing generic or off-topic. Not a full 2 only because it's framed as general 'climb better' tips that happen to center on crimps rather than a dedicated crimp-only lesson, but in practice it's almost entirely crimp-specific.

Reviewer Best map of grips against hold types for a newer climber.

Moderator Full grip taxonomy - three and four finger open, half crimp, full crimp, pinches, pockets, monos - mapped onto hold types. The crimp is central to the argument but it shares the stage with everything else.

Reviewer Good insight buried in a running commentary format.

Moderator Coaching session built entirely around minimizing load on crimps through body/foot positioning on a crimp-heavy route. Core subject is crimping even though delivery is conversational.

Reviewer Concrete, demonstrated fixes - triangle position and hip stacking genuinely unlock crimpy moves.

Moderator It never touches finger mechanics, but body position is a legitimate and often-overlooked half of crimping well - get your hips and feet wrong and no amount of finger strength saves you on a tiny edge. Framed entirely around solving crimp problems, with a real climber working real crimpy boulders, so I am calling it solidly on-topic even though the lever is body position rather than grip.

Reviewer Good rehab progression, just needs a re-edit -- the ending is rough.

Moderator Farmer crimps are a direct crimp-grip strength/rehab variation -- different finger position setups (4-finger, 3-finger, pocket, single finger) using a weighted sling. About training/rehabbing the crimp grip specifically rather than climbing-wall technique, which keeps it just under a full 2, but it's still squarely about the crimp positions themselves.

Moderator Full vs half crimp, explained directly — this is the grip technique itself, nothing else.

Reviewer Good primer on the two crimp styles and when each applies.

Reviewer Train open, perform closed - that one idea is worth the watch.

Moderator Open hand, half crimp and closed crimp are the first third; the rest is slopers, wraps and thumbs. Covers the sub-skill among other things.

Reviewer Explains why crimping loads your pulleys. Will not teach you to crimp.

Moderator General hand anatomy with the crimp as one of two grip positions it works through. Covers the sub-skill among other things rather than being about it.

Reviewer Good soundbite, not a full lesson -- worth a listen but doesn't teach you much on its own.

Moderator Conversation is specifically about full/high-angle crimping -- whether it's overhyped, when it's useful, injury risk by joint. Squarely on the crimp grip topic, just delivered as a casual discussion clip rather than a structured lesson, and it cuts off mid-sentence in this excerpt.

Reviewer Good reference format, though crimp only gets part of the video.

Moderator This is a broader grip guide — full crimp, three-finger drag, half crimp — with crimp as one entry among several hold types rather than the sole subject.

Reviewer Good general finger-training safety info, only partly about crimping.

Moderator This is a hangboarding intro covering finger strength training broadly - crimp is one grip discussed among several (slopers, half-crimp) rather than the focus.