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Resting on the wall

Climbing / Popular

Find and use rests to recover and control the pump.

What coaches agree on

  • Look for every rest you can find along the route — big jugs, ledges, cracks, flakes, or good stances — not just the obvious ones.
  • Take the weight off your arms by using your legs — plant your feet well, bring your hips in close to the wall, and use heel hooks or knee bars whenever the holds allow.
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  • Rest with the next section in mind, not just how tired you feel right now — spend more time on whichever hand the upcoming moves will demand most.

Common mistakes

  • Gripping much harder than the hold actually requires while resting, instead of consciously easing off to the lightest hold that keeps you on.
  • Letting your mind spiral into panic when you're pumped at a rest — racing thoughts, telling yourself you've already blown it — instead of slowing your breathing and staying calm.