Resting on the wall in Climbing

Reviewer The asymmetric-rest-for-the-next-move idea alone is worth way more than a typical resting tip.

Moderator Explicitly framed as being about resting technique on the route itself, not general endurance training — and it delivers exactly that.

Reviewer As good as it gets here -- concrete techniques you can use on your next route.

Moderator Squarely and explicitly about resting on the wall while still climbing -- 'when you're on a climb, how do you recover enough to bash out another 10 hard moves'. Exactly our sub-skill, from a professional climber's dedicated training series.

Reviewer Excellent, detailed coaching -- exactly what a climber refining their resting needs to hear.

Moderator Literally the first question answered: 'how to rest on routes... what's the appropriate time to rest.' Squarely, explicitly on our exact sub-skill from a credible source (Lattice Training).

Reviewer This is the one to send someone — five real, usable resting tips.

Moderator Title says it, content delivers it — entirely and only about how to rest mid-climb.

Reviewer Best kind of tutorial: explains it, then gives you a drill to actually get better at it.

Moderator Dead center of the tag. Defines the position de moindre effort, explains full rests (both hands off), the exact muscle-relaxation cue ('only hold what's necessary'), and then gives a concrete drill: pick a near-max route, use the rest points to send it three times in a row. This is coaching, not just tips.

Reviewer Detailed, specific, and tied to real climbing - one of the better lessons in this batch.

Moderator This is the sub-skill, full stop - finding transitions, using dihedrals for stemming rests, timing the chalk-up, not clipping mid-crux. Every section of the video is about resting on route.

Reviewer Clean, correct, no fluff. Watch this one first.

Moderator This is the skill, full stop — find a relaxed straight-arm position, load the legs instead of the arms, name the actual tools (heel hook, knee bar, drop knee), keep a triangular body position. Nothing else in this batch nails it this directly.

Reviewer Clean, specific, and actually useful -- just has an app plug bolted onto the end.

Moderator This is exactly what this sub-skill is asking for -- the knee bar is one of the core no-hands rest techniques in climbing, and the whole video is built around it: what it is, how to set it up, why it works. Squarely on-topic, core content.

Reviewer Correct and specific -- exactly how you'd coach this in person.

Moderator Entirely about how to actually rest on the wall -- identifies the common mistake (resting on a big hold with bent arms) and corrects it (weight over feet, straighten the arms, shake out below the heart). On-topic start to finish.

Reviewer Practical drill you can use on your very next route.

Moderator This is exactly the skill: evaluate the route for rest spots before climbing, shake out one hand at a time, find stable leg positions to take weight off your hands. Core resting-on-the-wall content.

Reviewer Good fundamentals on staying relaxed and resting, just less deep than the best videos on this topic.

Moderator Title and content both squarely about finding rests on a route while climbing -- looking for stances, staying relaxed. Directly on topic.

Reviewer Solid core tips, wish it went deeper before cutting to the stunt segment.

Moderator This is the sub-skill by name and content - straight arms, hanging on the skeleton not the muscles, not overgripping, using heel and toe hooks specifically to rest your arms. Every point ties directly back to resting.

Reviewer Practical and specific - you could actually go try this on the wall.

Moderator Framed explicitly around resting - 'here's how to rest without your hands' - and delivers a knee bar walkthrough as the answer. Exactly the sub-skill.

Reviewer Good real-route breakdown of rest types, a bit light on the technical how-to for the shakeout.

Moderator This is squarely about resting on the wall - the whole video is the climber working through his own rest tactics on a real route: no-hands stands, bridging to free one hand, knee bars, and shakeouts. Nothing else is being taught here, it's 100% on topic.

Reviewer Solid basics — rest at the jug, wait out the pump, repeat.

Moderator Short and entirely about resting while climbing — find a jug, rest until the pump clears, keep moving.

Reviewer Sensible recovery habits, quickly delivered. Doesn't dig into finding the rest itself.

Moderator Five tips for recovering mid-route: hips tight to the wall, loose open-hand grip, proper shaking out (switch hands, shake above and below), slow breathing, and taking your eyes off the moves above. All of it is about getting a real recovery on the wall, so it's right on the sub-skill.

Reviewer Clear mechanism and a useful visual cue to finish the move.

Moderator This is directly about a weight-transfer resting technique - shifting weight onto one leg to reduce strain before reaching, explicitly framed around resting the load rather than forcing a reach.

Reviewer Convincing demos of switching between tense and relaxed on real problems, with a sponsor break mid-video. Light on specific rest positions.

Moderator Covers the ebb and flow of tension on a climb: staying tight for the powerful moves, then relaxing, breathing and opening the hand whenever the moves allow. He shows it on a V5 and a V6, then climbs one tensed up on purpose to show what it costs. That's resting in motion rather than hunting for rest positions or shake-outs, so it's close to the sub-skill without covering all of it.

Reviewer Good, specific tip -- can't verify the demo without a transcript.

Moderator No transcript, but the caption is precise and on-topic: plan rest positions before you climb, hit those spots, shake out, keep moving. That's the sub-skill itself, not a tangent.

Reviewer Clear but general -- could use a concrete example.

Moderator Bridging is one of the core ways climbers rest on route -- the video says outright you can take your hands off the wall using it. It's framed as a general technique tutorial rather than 'resting' specifically, but resting is the headline benefit it teaches.

Reviewer The resting section alone is worth the watch if you're stuck at this grade.

Moderator Heel-based resting is one of five techniques covered and it gets real, specific treatment — turning a 20-second shake into a proper multi-minute camp. The rest of the video (twist-lock, pacing) is other material though, so it's not the sole focus.

Reviewer Genuinely useful detail on making a knee bar rest work, past the sponsor plug.

Moderator Genuinely detailed on-topic content: works out the knee bar setup, explains the foot is on a ~3mm edge, talks through toe rotation and training the position, and offers a training-board replica to practice the rest at home. This is squarely about resting on the wall.

Reviewer One good, correct tip -- but it's a very short clip, don't expect much depth.

Moderator Title is literally the skill name, and the description backs it up with a real on-topic point -- get your feet secure before committing weight to the rest. No transcript, but metadata alignment is about as clean as it gets.

Reviewer Promising claim, but 13 seconds isn't enough to actually verify.

Moderator The caption is almost a direct restatement of the sub-skill -- resting efficiently on the wall, managing pump, recovering while hanging. About as on-topic as a caption gets.

Reviewer Accurate but bare-bones - gets the basic idea across and stops there.

Moderator Knee bars are a core resting technique - wedge the leg into a gap to take weight off your hands - and this is squarely about how to set one, even if it's short.

Reviewer Genuinely useful technique, clearly broken down.

Moderator Framed around sit starts, but the actual technique -- offloading your fingers by sitting fully on your feet, opening the hip, arching the back to get flatter to the wall -- is exactly the weight-distribution skill you use to find a rest on route. It's not framed as 'resting,' so it's not a perfect match, but the substance transfers directly.

Reviewer Best technical breakdown in this batch — precise and actually useful.

Moderator Heel hooks are one of the standard tools for resting on route, and this breaks down exactly how to weight one properly. Framed as general heel hook mechanics rather than 'resting' by name, but very transferable.

Reviewer Probably a decent demo, but the caption reads more SEO than lesson — can't confirm depth.

Moderator Title and keywords are squarely about knee bar rests, which is exactly this sub-skill — a specific, named on-wall resting technique. No transcript to confirm depth, but the framing is dead-on.

Reviewer Shows the technique but doesn't really break it down — thin teaching.

Moderator Buried in a longer session vlog (with music and banter), there's an actual explicit rest demo: 'let me show you the rest... no hands rest... heel toe cam, ridiculously much easier.' That's squarely on-topic even if it's a small slice of the video.