Dyno

Climbing / Popular

Generate and commit to a dynamic move, and stick the catch.

What coaches agree on

  • Sink your hips and legs as low as you can before you launch — the deeper you load, the more power and height you'll generate.
  • Keep your hips and chest as close to the wall as possible all the way through the move — it gives you more power off the wall and makes the target hold far easier to latch.
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Common mistakes

  • Committing your hands, or driving hard with your legs, before your hips have carried you to the top of the move kills your momentum, so you fall back down or get pulled off the wall.
  • Fear of falling or hitting the wall makes climbers hesitate and half-commit instead of releasing fully, and that hesitation is what actually causes the bad falls and injuries they were trying to avoid.
How to Sideways Dyno
Advanced

How to Sideways Dyno

Coach's take: Smart framework (in-out-in) but only useful once you've got the basics down.

3.3
How to Dyno: 1 Year Dyno Comparison
Intermediate

How to Dyno: 1 Year Dyno Comparison

Coach's take: Good concrete lesson -- foot too high means you can't press down -- shown through an honest before/after, though it's more anecdote than general framework.

3.2
How to master the Lache Dyno
Advanced

How to master the Lache Dyno

Coach's take: The 'swing the wrong direction and you're just wasting the attempt' point is well made.

2.9