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Hangboard training

Climbing / Popular

Start finger strength training safely with sensible loading.

What coaches agree on

  • Train mainly in the half crimp — fingers bent to roughly 90 degrees — since it's the grip nearly every routine builds its finger-strength work around.
  • Warm up properly before your hardest sets, starting on big, easy holds and building up intensity gradually rather than jumping straight to a hard hang.
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  • Give hard sets real rest — several minutes, not one — so every hang gets a genuinely fresh, quality effort.

Common mistakes

  • Most hangboard injuries come not from bad hanging form but from poor load management — adding weight, frequency, or harder edges faster than tendons and pulleys can adapt. Treat any pain in a joint or tendon as a stop signal, not something to push through.
  • A recurring mistake is hanging fully passive, arms locked straight and shoulders slack, instead of staying actively engaged with a slight bend in the elbows.