Hangboard training in Climbing

Reviewer As good as beginner hangboard advice gets -- accurate, complete, no nonsense.

Moderator Textbook beginner hangboard primer -- intensity, grip types, edge size, sets/reps, when to program it, when to start. Covers the exact ground a first-timer needs, nothing extraneous.

Reviewer Textbook-quality hangboard lesson -- specific protocols, real safety caveats, nothing wasted.

Moderator Wall-to-wall hangboard training content from one of the most credible voices in the sport (author of Training for Climbing). Strength vs endurance, protocols, grip types, progression -- all of it squarely on-topic.

Reviewer Doesn't just cite the study -- actually interrogates whether it explains what everyone thinks it does.

Moderator A deep dive specifically into hangboard protocol research and physiology -- squarely and rigorously the skill, at the highest level of depth in this whole batch.

Reviewer The load-management explanation here beats most full courses.

Moderator The whole video is about hangboarding risk and appropriateness for beginners specifically, with two named subject-matter experts. On topic.

Reviewer Shows you how to actually build a session, not just tells you.

Moderator Full real-time session build from scratch -- setup, warm-up, gradual load progression by feel. On topic throughout.

Reviewer As good as fingerboard fundamentals content gets -- reasoned, not just prescriptive.

Moderator Comprehensive fundamentals video -- edge depth, joint angle/grip type, finger count, hang duration, one vs two arms. All hangboard, all the time.

Reviewer Smart approach, well explained -- just assumes you already know your way around a hangboard.

Moderator A full methodology for training without added weight -- working hand vs. assist hand, hold-quality progression instead of load progression. Squarely a hangboard training technique, explained in real depth.

Reviewer Detailed enough to actually follow, and it tells you which version fits your level.

Moderator A specific structured protocol for hangboarding immediately before a climbing session -- exactly on topic, exactly the kind of programming question climbers actually have.

Reviewer Title's clickbait, content underneath is the real deal -- genuinely nuanced.

Moderator This interrogates hangboarding itself -- should you, how much, how to load safely, how it fits your training. Squarely and thoroughly the skill, just at the 'how to think about it' level rather than a single protocol.

Reviewer Covers the real, common mistakes -- this is the video that keeps beginners' fingers healthy.

Moderator Nine mistakes, all directly about hangboard/grip training practice -- timing, rest intervals, frequency, warmup, grip type. Entirely on-topic and well organized.

Reviewer Everything you need to hangboard safely and correctly, form through protocol.

Moderator Entirely about hangboard training -- form, warm-up, then full beginner and intermediate protocols. On topic top to bottom.

Reviewer Precise, well-reasoned protocol with real safety guidance baked in. Hand-this-to-an-athlete quality.

Moderator Cameron Hurst again, laying out the 7/3 repeater protocol step by step -- sets, rest, grip rotation, group structure. All hangboard, all the time.

Reviewer Thorough and honest about who this is and isn't for, with real detail on dosage and when to back off it. Strong.

Moderator Two full hangboard methods (minimal edge, edge reduction), explained start to finish with the actual gear setup. This is squarely the sub-skill, nothing else.

Reviewer Clean protocol with the safety caveats that actually matter -- how to regress it if you're not strong enough yet, how to progress it once you are.

Moderator Cameron Hurst, straight demonstration of a one-arm hangboard protocol, gated explicitly to climbers who are actually ready for it. This is the sub-skill, taught directly, nothing else mixed in.

Reviewer The safe, sane introduction - offload the load, warm up long, keep climbing the main event.

Moderator A beginner's introduction to hangboarding and nothing else - who should do it, what dead hanging is, edge sizes, safety, which grips.

Reviewer The clearest, most complete beginner hangboard explainer here -- edge size, grip choice, safety rule, all correct.

Moderator Comprehensive beginner curriculum for fingerboarding -- edge size, grip types, load management methods, frequency -- all squarely about how to hangboard, aimed explicitly at people starting out.

Reviewer Best starting point, especially the 'not ready yet, go climb' test.

Moderator Hangboarding start to finish - what to buy or build, edge sizes, wood and rounding, warm-up, readiness, frequency.

Reviewer Detailed and sequenced well -- follow this and you'll actually be warmed up right.

Moderator A full warm-up progression on the board, edge by edge, grip by grip. This is squarely hangboard training, no question.

Reviewer Good detail and he tells you why, not just what -- but you need some hangboard background already.

Moderator This is a real, specific hangboard routine start to finish -- intensity, grip rotation, hang/rest timing, stated purpose. Squarely the skill.

Reviewer Clear, safe, specific -- sets, rest, load all spelled out. No fluff.

Moderator Literally 'start here' for hangboarding: no-hangs protocol, edge selection, load management via feet-on-ground, half-crimp position. Nothing here strays from teaching hangboard training to a first-timer.

Reviewer Board before you climb, half crimp most of the time - the two corrections most people need.

Moderator All fingerboard training - where the session sits, which grips to train, how long to rest.

Reviewer Specific program with a real periodized schedule -- just know he's passing along someone else's system, not coaching from his own experience.

Moderator Full advanced hangboard program, grip technique and a 12-week periodized schedule, nothing else in the video. Squarely on topic.

Reviewer Solid demonstration of finding your number, light on the specifics you'd need to copy it exactly.

Moderator Straight hangboard load-finding session -- incrementing weight, rating effort, landing on a working set. Exactly the skill in action.

Reviewer Solid follow-along with the right cues, just don't expect deep explanation -- bring your own why.

Moderator This is a real fingerboard session in real time: hangs on the jug, pull-up warm-up, 20mm edge progression, half-crimp cueing, scapula engagement -- that's the actual practice of hangboard training, not chatter about it. Every minute is spent doing the thing the sub-skill is about.

Reviewer Correct, non-obvious point -- train what your project needs, not a generic protocol.

Moderator Squarely about hangboard training methodology -- why volume alone doesn't work and what should replace it. On-topic throughout, just brief.

Reviewer Solid low-intensity protocol, just sit through the sponsor bit first.

Moderator The whole video is a specific sub-maximal hangboard protocol, done live as a follow-along. On topic.

Reviewer The answer to 'am I ready for a hangboard yet' -- clear and well-reasoned.

Moderator Directly addresses when hangboard/campus training should enter a climber's routine by grade tier -- explicitly calls out hangboarding as 'way too early' below V3 and appropriate at V6+. Squarely useful, though it sits inside a broader training-vs-mileage discussion.

Reviewer Real protocol, real numbers, and a clear explanation of why it's safer than standard two-arm hangs. Worth watching past the vlog framing.

Moderator Personal-experiment framing, but the actual content is a real alternative hangboard method (one-arm max-pull isometrics / no-hangs), sourced from a named expert (Dr. Tyler Nelson), with the protocol laid out. Squarely on topic.

Reviewer Real protocol with real numbers, wrapped in a sponsor read and a lot of spray.

Moderator Entirely hangboard protocol - the twice-daily low-intensity hang, how it changed over two years, and what happens when he stops.

Reviewer Practical starter protocol with real numbers — hang times, sets, rest and edge depth — and a sensible safety nudge.

Moderator Hangboarding for climbers who've plateaued and want stronger fingers, and how to start: 10 to 20 second hangs, three to six sets, two to four minutes rest, a big edge, half crimp or open hand, at least a pad and a half of edge depth, shoulders and core on. Squarely hangboard training, with a sensible nudge to get coaching for the finer points.

Reviewer Good, specific coaching advice, just wrapped in a longer personal story.

Moderator Personal 30-day hangboard journey but with a real coach (UCSD climbing team) giving actual protocol advice embedded in it -- shoulder position, 10-on/10-off, rest intervals, progression, deload. The vlog wrapper doesn't dilute that the core content is genuine hangboard coaching.

Reviewer Specific, credible protocol - the kind of detail worth stealing for your own warm-up.

Moderator A numbered warm-up protocol on the hangboard - starting on jugs, progressing to 20mm crimps with added weight - is exactly hangboard training content, described with real specificity.

Reviewer Good info in there, but you're digging through a vlog to find it.

Moderator The whole video is a specific hangboard protocol (no-hangs, twice daily) run as a month-long experiment. On topic.

Reviewer Refreshingly honest about being one guy's experiment, and the protocol behind it is explained well. Assumes you already know your grip types.

Moderator A real protocol (no-hangs, 10 sec on/50 off, multiple grip positions) grounded in an actual research citation, tested by the presenter over 30 days. On topic and specific, just wrapped in personal-experiment narration.

Moderator Grips for hangboarding from a coach: open hand versus half crimp, why half crimp is the best training grip, and why the thumb stays out of it when training. Only one part of hangboarding — grip position — but it's the core of it.

Reviewer Clear explanation of open hand vs half crimp and why the thumb stays out — only grips, no protocol.

Reviewer Correct in spirit, too vague to train from.

Moderator Hangboard is one of three tips here, and it's the last third of the video. Real advice, but hips and footwork eat most of the runtime, so this only partly earns the tag.

Reviewer More story and sponsor read than teaching -- the protocol's in there, but you have to dig for it.

Moderator Framed as a personal experiment/challenge narrative rather than direct instruction, and a good chunk of the excerpt is backstory about other climbers' results plus a full sponsor read for a training app. But the actual protocol details are real and specific -- the no-hang routine (80% bodyweight, twice daily, 14mm edge) and a crimped-finger benchmark test (20mm edge, +5kg per set) are genuine hangboard-training content, so it's not off in the weeds, just diluted.