How to fall safely

Climbing / Popular

Fall and land safely when bouldering and on lead.

What coaches agree on

  • Before you commit to a fall, check your landing is clear β€” for bouldering, make sure the pads are positioned under you with no gaps and you know where their edges are; for a lead fall, make sure your gear is solid and the space below is free of ledges or protrusions.
  • Build up gradually: practice short, low falls first and only increase the height or distance once each level feels completely comfortable.
Show more
  • On a lead fall, keep your body relaxed with your legs and arms softly bent, like a shock absorber, ready for the rope to come tight or for contact with the wall.
  • Call out to your belayer before and during a lead fall β€” a warning like "watch me" or "falling" lets them brace and give you a softer catch.

Common mistakes

  • Pushing off or away from the wall as you come off on a lead fall β€” coaches describe this instinct as backfiring into a bigger arcing swing that slams you back into the rock harder than if you'd just let go.
  • Grabbing for something to stop yourself mid-fall β€” the rope, a quickdraw, or a hold while bouldering β€” coaches warn this is how fingers get cut or burned and shoulders get wrenched, not how a fall actually gets stopped.
  • Landing stiff-legged and letting your arms shoot out straight to catch yourself in a bouldering fall, instead of rolling through the impact β€” coaches point to this as how wrists and elbows get broken and backs take the full shock.
Rock Climbing: Lead Fall
Beginner

Rock Climbing: Lead Fall

Coach's take: Solid, complete lesson on taking a lead fall properly β€” nothing missing.

3.7
How Climbers Can Control Fear
Beginner

How Climbers Can Control Fear

Coach's take: Genuinely useful, well-explained method for getting past the fear that stops people from practicing falls at all.

2.9
Rock Climbing: Lead Belay
Intermediate

Rock Climbing: Lead Belay

Coach's take: Skip to the 'catching a fall' parts and you'll actually learn something.

2.0